Lao ponderations, Luang Prabang.

Lao is a beautiful country with such a sad history. Always conquered, no strong identity, under colonial rule, being bombed, now overtaken by tourists. I have only seen places on the tourist trail, and the main problem I see is the switch from traditional Lao life into catering for tourists. It is obvious that the locals are not used to having tourists everywhere, expecting to be served. The locals appear lovely and speak much better English than I heard in Thailand, and I think they try hard to provide the services. Still everyday I see a tourist complaining about the meal she ordered and refuses to pay. People not respecting the dressing codes, or touching people's heads (not done in Buddhist countries), or walking inside people's homes with their shoes on. So many complaints and so little understanding towards the Lao people.

Luang Prabang is a beautiful world heritage site - old French-style buildings, numerous wats and young monks in their orange robes going to the monastery school, great food market, and a lot of guesthouses and restaurants to keep the tourists happy. I have been spending a lot of time with lovely Europeans I met on the boat here, and I've been so happy to have company every day. It has made me miss my boyfriend a lot, realising once again how I'm happier with friendly people around me! Today I spent in an internet cafe writing the methods section to an article we want to publish soon - the work keeps following me!- and trying to plan my next step to Phonsavanh.

The local food still keeps exciting me - I really enjoy the lap, and the curries have been tasty too. The French influence can be seen in the presence of winebars and bakeries, and I have to confess to eating breakfast at the most divine Swedish bakery. The ham and cheese croissants and cinnamon buns are just like back home and cost only tens of thousands! Speaking of food makes me hungry, so I guess it's time for late lunch/early dinner!